Before diving in, a quick correction to a common assumption: the Thunderobot G50S has no BIOS to update, because it is a wireless gaming controller rather than a computer. What people usually mean when they search for “firmware update” on this device is either the small internal chip firmware that governs button response and stick calibration, or simply getting a stubborn pairing to reset and reconnect properly. This guide covers both, organized as a set of fixes you can jump straight to.
Fix One: Updating the Controller’s Firmware
Thunderobot occasionally publishes firmware revisions for the G50S that improve stick response, fix minor input lag in specific games, or resolve connection drops. To check for and apply one:
Connect the G50S to your PC using the included USB-C cable rather than wirelessly, since firmware updates require a stable wired link. Visit the Thunderobot download page and look for the G50S entry under controllers or gamepads. Download the firmware updater tool, run it, and follow the on-screen prompts, which usually just involve clicking an update button and waiting while a progress bar completes. Do not disconnect the cable or close the updater while this is running, since interrupting a firmware flash partway through can leave the controller unresponsive.
Fix Two: Resetting a Broken Pairing
If the G50S connected fine before but now refuses to reconnect, whether over Bluetooth or the 2.4 GHz dongle, a full pairing reset usually clears it up.
Turn the controller off completely rather than leaving it in standby. Hold the mode and pairing buttons together, referencing the printed quick-start card for the exact combination, until the LED flashes rapidly to confirm the old pairing information has been cleared. On your PC or device, remove the previously saved Bluetooth entry for the controller entirely, rather than trying to reconnect to the existing saved profile. Start the pairing process again from scratch, treating it as a brand-new device.
Fix Three: Dealing With 2.4 GHz Interference
The bundled USB dongle usually offers the most stable and lowest-latency connection, but it shares the same radio frequency band as many other wireless devices. If you notice occasional stutters or brief disconnects, move the dongle to a rear USB port using a short extension cable so it sits further from your PC case and other 2.4 GHz peripherals like wireless mice or keyboards. Also try a different USB port entirely, since some motherboard ports handle wireless dongles better than others depending on shielding and controller chipset.
Fix Four: Calibrating Sticks That Feel Off
The G50S uses Hall effect sensors in its analog sticks, which resist the physical drift that plagues older potentiometer-based controllers, but calibration can still shift slightly over time or after a firmware update. Most platforms, including Windows, offer a built-in controller calibration screen that shows a live visual of stick position. Open it, move each stick through its full range a few times, and confirm both return cleanly to a centered dead zone. If one stick consistently shows a small offset at rest, a factory reset combination, again listed on the quick-start card, often resolves it without needing a warranty claim.
What Actually Fixed Mine
My G50S developed an odd habit of disconnecting every ten or fifteen minutes during longer sessions, which I initially assumed was a battery issue. It turned out to be interference from a wireless mouse dongle plugged into the same front-panel USB hub. Moving the controller’s dongle to a rear port on the motherboard and leaving the mouse on the front hub solved it completely, and it has not dropped a connection since. It was a frustrating problem to diagnose because everything about the controller itself was working correctly, the issue was entirely about USB port placement. I mention this because it is easy to assume a wireless disconnect means a defective unit, when in a lot of cases the real culprit is sitting right next to it on the same USB hub, quietly fighting for the same slice of radio spectrum.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does the G50S have a BIOS I need to update?
No. It is a controller, not a computer, so there is no BIOS. Any firmware update only affects the small chip that manages button and stick input.
Will a firmware update erase my button mappings?
It can reset custom settings to factory defaults in some cases, so it is worth noting your preferred configuration before updating, just in case you need to redo it afterward.
Is it safe to update firmware over Bluetooth?
Wired USB is strongly recommended for any firmware update, since a wireless disconnection partway through the process carries more risk than a stable cable connection.
How do I know if my controller actually needs a firmware update?
If everything works as expected, there is no need to update proactively. Check the download page only when you experience a specific issue like the ones covered above.
What if the controller is not recognized in a specific game?
Some older games only support one of the two main PC controller signal standards. Try the input mode toggle described in the connection section first, since it resolves the majority of cases where a controller is detected by Windows but ignored by an individual game.
Can I fix these issues myself, or should I contact support?
The fixes in this guide resolve the vast majority of everyday problems without any tools or disassembly. If a controller still misbehaves after trying all four fixes, including a full pairing reset and a firmware check, that is a reasonable point to reach out to Thunderobot support or the retailer, since it may point to an actual hardware fault rather than a settings issue.
Conclusion
Most G50S problems trace back to one of four things: outdated firmware, a corrupted pairing, wireless interference, or minor stick calibration drift, and each has a specific, repeatable fix rather than requiring a replacement. Working through these in order before assuming the hardware has failed will resolve the overwhelming majority of issues people run into with this controller.
This guide was written by a technical writer who documents consumer electronics setup and troubleshooting processes, testing each fix personally before publishing it.